THE FEBRUARY SHUFFLE
Georgian Wines: Teliani Vineyards
It is odd to think of Georgia as an “up and coming” wine region. After all, archeologists can trace winemaking in the region back over 8000 years–the oldest such finds to date. It is, in fact, the mothership–a region with the longest history of winemaking and over five hundred indigenous grape varieties. And while the wines made here in the Soviet era were nothing to write home about, Georgian now produces some truly delicious wines using traditional grape varietals and techniques. Not many places can boast such a wide range of wine styles and I would argue that, for the moment at least, no place offers a better quality to value ratio than Georgia.
Teliani Vineyards, Tsolikouri 2023, Imereti, Georgia
Teliani Vineyards is one of the key modern producers helping bring Georgia’s ancient wine culture into a new era of precision and freshness. Based in Kakheti, the country’s most famous wine region, Teliani makes wine from across Georgia’s diverse landscapes, sourcing from historic appellations and native grapes that have been grown here for thousands of years. Their approach is thoughtful and quality-driven, combining traditional Georgian respect for place with contemporary winemaking that lets these unique varieties speak clearly.
Tsolikouri is one of western Georgia’s great white grapes, making wines that feel generous and sun-kissed while still staying beautifully lifted and bright. Grown in Imereti, where the climate is cooler and greener than the east, this 2023 bottling is all about balance, showing ripe orchard fruit and citrus zest, with a subtle herbal edge and a clean mineral snap that keeps everything refreshing. The texture is soft and rounded, but the finish is crisp, making it the kind of wine that disappears quickly once opened.
This is a white wine of charm rather than weight. It is easy to love, but quietly distinctive, and a perfect introduction to Georgia’s remarkable native grapes.
Pairings (a few favorites)
Grilled chicken with lemon, herbs, and olive oil
Fresh salads with cucumbers, feta, and dill
Simple seafood—shrimp, trout, or anything lightly grilled
Teliani Vineyards, Saperavi 2023, Kakheti, Georgia
Saperavi is Georgia’s calling card red: bold, dark-fruited, and unmistakably its own. This is a grape with centuries of history behind it, prized for its ability to produce wines that are both powerful and deeply expressive of place. If Saperavi has a superpower, it is the grape’s ability to deliver color, depth, and intensity while still holding onto a core of freshness (it’s one of the rare teinturier varieties, meaning even the flesh is dark, not just the skins.) In Kakheti’s sun, Saperavi ripens into something concentrated and full-bodied—blackberry, plum, and dark cherry fruit layered with hints of violet, spice, and earthy undertones.
This 2023 bottling is medium-full bodied with a firm but polished structure—plenty of grip for food, but with enough fruit and lift to stay lively. It’s a wine that feels powerful without being ponderous, and it’s a perfect introduction to why Saperavi has become Georgia’s signature red on the world stage.
Pairings
Ana Sortun’s ground beef and pistachio kebab from her book Spice: Flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean