THE FEBRUARY B-SIDES
Under the Radar Italian Reds
Bruno Verdi, Buttafuoco, Oltrepò Pavese 2020
Buttafuoco is one of northern Italy’s great under-the-radar reds, grown in the rolling hills of Oltrepò Pavese, just south of the Po River. This is a region that doesn’t always get the attention it deserves, but it has the bones for serious wine: steep slopes, limestone-rich soils, and a long tradition of blending local grapes into something greater than the sum of its parts. Bruno Verdi is one of the producers keeping that tradition alive, crafting wines that feel honest, expressive, and deeply tied to place.
Rather than being a wine of brute force, Buttafuoco is all about balance and character—rich enough to feel comforting, but structured in a way that keeps it lively at the table. Made from a blend centered on Croatina (65%) with Barbera (25%) and a touch of Uva Rara (10%), it brings dark fruit depth, bright acidity, and a savory edge that makes it endlessly food-friendly. The 2020 bottling is medium-full bodied, with black cherry, plum, and blackberry notes layered with dried herbs, a hint of spice, and that gentle earthiness that feels so distinctly Italian.
This is the kind of red that doesn’t need to shout to make its point—it’s sturdy, warming, and deeply satisfying, the perfect bottle for a long dinner or a cold evening when you want something with both comfort and character.
Pairing Ideas
Braised pork or beef ragù over pasta
Sausage and lentils, or anything with rosemary and garlic
Mushroom risotto or grilled polenta
Balgera, Rosso di Valtellina “450” DOC 2018
High in the Italian Alps, the terraced vineyards of Valtellina cling to steep mountainsides in a landscape that feels as dramatic as the wines it produces. This is one of Italy’s most distinctive wine regions, where Nebbiolo (known locally as Chiavennasca, or Nebbiolo Alpini) takes on a completely different personality than it does in Piedmont.. Balgera is one of the longtime traditional estates here, crafting wines that capture the elegance, freshness, and alpine character that make Valtellina so special.
Rosso di Valtellina is often the region’s most approachable expression of Nebbiolo: lighter on its feet than Barolo or Barbaresco, but still unmistakably Nebbiolo in its perfume and structure. The “450” bottling is a beautiful example, offering bright red cherry, wild strawberry, and cranberry fruit, layered with rose petals, subtle spice, and a faint stony earthiness that speaks to the mountain soils. The tannins are fine and gentle, giving just enough grip without ever feeling heavy.
This 2018 is a wine of quiet charm and lift—perfect for those moments when you want something nuanced and food-friendly rather than overpowering. It’s Nebbiolo seen through an alpine lens: graceful, aromatic, and endlessly drinkable.
Pairing Ideas
Grilled lamb with herbs
Braised pork over polenta
