THE JANUARY CLASSICS

Jan 1

How to tell your left (bank) from your right (bank)

One of the most useful ways to understand Bordeaux is to stop thinking in terms of châteaux and start thinking in terms of riverbanks. The Gironde and its tributaries divide the region into the Left Bank and the Right Bank, and while the distance between them can be measured in miles, the stylistic differences in the glass are far greater. On the Left Bank, deep beds of gravel dominate, draining quickly and retaining heat- conditions that favor Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape that thrives on structure, tannin, and time. The resulting wines tend to be firmer, more linear, and built for aging.

Across the water on the Right Bank, clay and limestone soils hold moisture and moderate temperature, creating ideal conditions for Merlot, which ripens earlier and expresses itself with plush texture, dark fruit, and approachability. Add in subtle climate variations and different vineyard exposures, and you end up with two distinct expressions of Bordeaux: one driven by power and precision, the other by generosity and charm- both shaped as much by what lies beneath the vines as by what grows above them.

Château des Fougères “La Raison, Clos Montesquieu” Graves, 2020

Graves is where Bordeaux begins. Long before classifications and château mythology took hold, vines were planted here on gravelly soils that warm quickly and drain freely, giving the region both its name and its identity. Château des Fougères sits firmly in this tradition, with roots reaching back to the 19th century and a modern philosophy centered on restraint, balance, and letting the site do the talking.

The Clos Montesquieu parcel lies on classic Graves soils- deep layers of gravel mixed with clay and limestone- a combination that encourages structure without heaviness. In 2020, a warm but well-balanced vintage, those soils delivered fruit with ripeness and clarity. The estate farms thoughtfully, emphasizing sustainable vineyard practices and careful yields, with an eye toward preserving soil health and long-term vitality rather than chasing short-term intensity.

In the glass, the wine shows a clear ruby core with aromas of blackcurrant, plum, graphite, and tobacco leaf, underscored by a subtle earthy note that feels unmistakably Graves. The palate is firm but polished: dark fruit framed by fine tannins, fresh acidity, and a savory finish that leans more toward stone and forest floor than overt oak. This is a wine built on structure and proportion, not excess.

Pairing ideas:

Herb-roasted lamb or pork
Duck confit or grilled duck breast
Mushroom risotto or lentils with thyme
Aged Alpine cheeses (Comté, Beaufort)

Decanting for 30–45 minutes helps the wine stretch its legs. Drink now through the next 6–8 years.

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Château Vieux Chevrol Lalande-de-Pomerol, 2020

If Bordeaux had a well-worn classic, something reliable, understated, and quietly confident, Lalande-de-Pomerol would fit the bill. Sitting just north of Pomerol proper, the appellation often flies under the radar, yet consistently delivers wines with depth, polish, and approachability. Château Vieux Chevrol is a perfect example: a small, family-run estate farming clay-rich soils ideally suited to Merlot, producing wines that favor balance and expression over flash.

The château has been in the hands of the Chollet family for generations, with vineyards planted on the same clay and gravel formations that give neighboring Pomerol its plush texture and depth. Farming here is carried out with sustainability in mind- careful vineyard management, respect for the land, and a cellar approach that prioritizes fruit purity over heavy extraction or showy oak.

The 2020 vintage plays directly to Vieux Chevrol’s strengths. In the glass, the wine is deep ruby, opening with aromas of black cherry, plum, and blueberry, followed by notes of cocoa, baking spice, and a gentle floral lift. On the palate, it’s supple and generous, with Merlot’s signature roundness balanced by fresh acidity and fine, integrated tannins. There’s richness here, but also control, a wine that feels immediately welcoming without being simplistic.

Pairing ideas: