THE JUNE SHUFFLE
I PÁSTINI (BLASTS FROM THE PAST)
This month we're heading to Puglia. Yes, I know that we just had wines from the region a few months ago, but there are truly few places that provide such wonderfully expressive and interesting wines at such incredible value! I Pástini is a family estate dedicated to preserving some of southern Italy's most distinctive native grape varieties on the sun-soaked heel of Italy's boot.
While Puglia is often associated with powerful reds and endless olive groves, the region is also home to a remarkable diversity of indigenous grapes, many of which nearly disappeared during the latter half of the twentieth century. Over the last two decades, a handful of producers have worked to bring them back into the spotlight, and few have done more than the Carparelli family at I Pástini.
Founded by Donato Carparelli and now run alongside his son Gianni, the estate is located in the beautiful Valle d'Itria, a limestone plateau dotted with ancient olive trees and the region's iconic whitewashed trulli houses. Farming organically and focusing exclusively on local varieties, I Pástini has become one of the leading ambassadors for the wines of central Puglia. Their mission is refreshingly simple: showcase the unique character of the region through grapes that have been grown here for centuries.
The Valle d'Itria itself is something of an anomaly within Puglia. While much of the region is known for heat and ripeness, the valley's higher elevations and proximity to the Adriatic create cooler conditions that preserve freshness and acidity in the vineyards. Combined with the area's limestone-rich soils, the result is wines that offer all the generosity of southern Italy but with an unexpected sense of lift, energy, and precision.
I Pástini Valle d'Itria Bianco "Faraone"
The "Faraone" Verdeca is made from one of Puglia's oldest native white grapes. Verdeca has long been prized locally for its ability to retain acidity even in the Mediterranean heat, and in the hands of I Pástini it produces a wine that is both vibrant and quietly complex. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, it opens with aromas of citrus blossom, fresh herbs, green apple, and lemon zest. On the palate, the wine is crisp and mineral, with notes of citrus, almond, and a subtle saline quality that seems to echo the nearby sea. It's the kind of white that feels equally at home alongside oysters, grilled fish, or a simple plate of fresh burrata.
I Pástini Susumaniello Rosato "Le Rotaie"
The "Le Rotaie" Susumaniello Rosato showcases one of Italy's most exciting comeback stories. Susumaniello—whose name roughly translates to "little donkey," a reference to the heavy yields young vines can produce—was once on the verge of disappearing. Today, growers like I Pástini are demonstrating just how compelling the variety can be. Made entirely from Susumaniello and vinified in stainless steel, this rosato is bursting with wild strawberry, watermelon, blood orange, and hints of Mediterranean herbs. Bright acidity and a dry finish keep the wine refreshing and energetic, while its depth of fruit gives it far more substance than your average summer rosé. It is equally suited to aperitivo hour, seafood dishes, grilled vegetables, or simply a warm evening on the porch.
