THE APRIL CLASSICS
From the quiet corners of Burgundy
A Note on the Producers
Domaine René Lequin-Colin
Domaine René Lequin-Colin sits in Santenay, at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, and carries one of those deep Burgundian family histories that quietly shapes everything in the glass. The Lequin family has been working vines here since at least the late 1600s, with a lineage that stretches back to 1679.
The modern domaine took shape in the 1970s, when René Lequin and Josette Colin brought together two winemaking families through marriage. Today, their son François runs the estate, overseeing about nine hectares spread across Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet, and a handful of other classic villages.
What defines the wines is a kind of quiet discipline. Farming has been organic for over a decade, with a strong emphasis on low yields and careful vineyard work. In the cellar, the approach is restrained. François tends to favor minimal intervention and lets the character of each site come through clearly. The wines are known for their purity, balance, and a sense of place that feels unforced.
This is Burgundy without unnecessary polish. Thoughtful, traditional, and very much rooted in the land.
Domaine Doreau
Domaine Doreau, based in Monthélie, is a smaller and more under-the-radar estate, but no less steeped in tradition. The story begins in the late 19th century, when Pierre Doreau arrived in the region to help replant vineyards after phylloxera and gradually acquired parcels of his own.
Since then, the domaine has been passed down steadily from one generation to the next, now in the hands of Jérôme and Emilie Doreau. The estate remains compact at around six hectares, which allows for a hands-on, detail-oriented approach both in the vineyard and cellar.
Farming is sustainable and thoughtful, with manual harvests, careful pruning, and a focus on maintaining balance in the vines. The wines are fermented traditionally and aged in mostly neutral oak, resulting in wines that lean toward finesse rather than power.
Monthélie itself is one of those villages that often flies under the radar, tucked between more famous neighbors like Volnay and Meursault. The wines tend to reflect that position. They are elegant, slightly rustic, and often offer remarkable value for classic Côte de Beaune character.
2022 René Lequin-Colin Santenay Vieilles Vignes
Santenay is sometimes overlooked, which is part of its appeal. It sits just far enough south to avoid the spotlight, but in the right hands it delivers wines with real depth and character.
This Vieilles Vignes bottling draws from older vines planted across several parcels, rooted in clay-limestone soils that give the wine both structure and lift.
In the glass, it leans toward a darker, more grounded expression of Pinot Noir. There’s ripe cherry and red fruit at the core, but it’s framed by floral notes and a subtle earthiness that feels distinctly Burgundian.
The palate shows a bit more structure than you might expect from Pinot at this level. The tannins are present but well integrated, giving the wine shape without hard edges. There’s a slight firmness that speaks to Santenay’s character, balanced by freshness that keeps everything in line.
What stands out is the honesty. This is not a polished or overly refined wine. It’s expressive, a little rustic in the best way, and very much tied to its origin.
With a bit of air, it opens nicely and becomes more generous. It’s an easy match for classic pairings like roast chicken, pork, or anything with a bit of earthiness.
2023 Domaine Doreau Monthélie
Monthélie often feels like a quieter version of Volnay. The wines share a similar elegance, but with a touch more rustic charm and a bit less expectation attached.
The 2023 from Domaine Doreau fits that description well. Aromatically, it sits firmly in the red fruit spectrum. Think cherry, raspberry, and a light herbal note that adds freshness rather than weight.
On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and lifted, with a softer structure than the Santenay. The tannins are fine and unobtrusive, allowing the fruit to take the lead. There’s a gentle earthy note underneath that gives the wine a sense of place without dominating the profile.
It’s a wine that doesn’t try to overdeliver. Instead, it leans into balance and drinkability. That makes it particularly appealing at the table, where its lighter touch works well with a wide range of dishes.
Serve it just slightly cool and it really comes into focus.
Final Thoughts
These two wines offer a nice look at the quieter corners of Burgundy.
The Santenay brings a bit more structure and depth, with a firmer backbone and a slightly more serious tone. The Monthélie is lighter on its feet, more immediately open, and built for easy enjoyment.
What they share is a sense of authenticity. Neither feels overworked or overly styled. Both reflect the hands that made them and the places they come from.
That, more than anything, is what makes them worth paying attention to.
