THE MAY B-SIDES
PASCAL JANVIER & COTEAUX DU LOIR
There’s a certain kind of wine that only really makes sense once you understand where it comes from. Not just geographically, but culturally. Coteaux du Loir is one of those places. It sits just north of the Loire proper, cooler, less traveled, and increasingly rare. The vineyards here are scattered along the Loir River, a quieter tributary, and what remains of the appellation feels more like a holdover than a thriving industry.
Pascal Janvier didn’t inherit a grand domaine or step into an obvious path. He came to wine later, after training as a butcher, and built his project slowly, parcel by parcel. Today he and his wife Dominique farm a patchwork of small sites themselves, something like nine hectares in total, spread across dozens of parcels.
There’s a deliberateness to that story that shows up in the wines. Nothing feels rushed. Nothing feels overworked. These are wines made by someone who chose this life carefully and continues to approach it that way.
Pascal Janvier Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Chenin Blanc here doesn’t behave the way it does further west. The climate is cooler, the fruit never quite tips into opulence, and what you get instead is something more restrained, a little more inward.
At first, the wine can feel almost reserved. There’s orchard fruit, certainly, but it’s wrapped in something more subtle. A hint of spice, maybe, and that faintly waxy texture Chenin can carry. With air, it starts to open. The aromatics stretch out, showing something slightly exotic, a touch of clove or musk, alongside a distinctly flinty edge that feels tied directly to the soils.
On the palate, it’s dry, clean, and structured without being severe. The acidity is there, but it doesn’t dominate. Instead, it holds the wine in place, giving it a kind of quiet tension.
This is not a wine that announces itself immediately. It’s better to let it settle, to give it time at the table. It has a way of revealing itself gradually, especially alongside food. Try it with spring vegetables or seafood dishes.
Pascal Janvier “Cuvée des Rosiers” Coteaux du Loir Rouge
Pineau d’Aunis is one of those grapes that feels almost out of step with modern expectations. It’s lighter, more aromatic, and a little unpredictable. For a long time, it nearly disappeared, replaced by varieties that were easier to grow and more commercially reliable.
Janvier’s version reminds you why it’s worth preserving.
The wine opens with bright, high-toned fruit. Strawberry, sour cherry, and then that unmistakable peppery note that seems to define the grape. It’s not subtle, but it’s not aggressive either. It just sits there, part of the wine’s identity.
There’s a lightness to the palate that can be misleading. It moves easily, almost like a young Pinot, but with more edge, more lift. There’s even a slight prickle of energy, something that keeps the wine feeling alive and a bit unpredictable.
Served with a slight chill, it really comes into focus. It’s the kind of wine that adapts to whatever’s on the table. Particularly good with dishes that have a bit of heat or spice, where that peppery character starts to feel almost intentional.
Final Thoughts
These wines don’t feel like they’re trying to compete with anything. They come from a place that’s been largely overlooked, made by someone who arrived there by choice, not inheritance.
The blanc is measured and quietly complex, built more on texture and structure than overt fruit. The rouge is brighter, more immediate, but still grounded in something distinctly local and a little wild.
If there’s a common thread, it’s restraint. Not in the sense of holding back, but in knowing exactly how far to go and stopping there.
They don’t ask for much. Just a little attention, and maybe a bit of time.
