THE AUGUST B-SIDES
Bisson: Bianchetta Genovese & Ciliegiolo
Liguria, Italy's slender crescent of coastline tucked between the Mediterranean Sea and the Maritime Alps, is one of the country's most breathtaking wine regions—and one of its most difficult places to grow grapes. Here, vineyards cling to steep stone terraces overlooking the sea, where nearly every task must be done by hand. The work is so demanding that much of Liguria's traditional viticulture nearly disappeared during the twentieth century, taking many of its native grape varieties with it.
Few people have done more to reverse that story than Pierluigi Lugano, founder of Bisson. When Lugano established the winery in 1978, he wasn't born into a winemaking family. He began as a wine merchant in the seaside town of Chiavari, fascinated by the rustic wines local farmers still made for themselves but rarely bottled commercially. Rather than chasing international varieties, Lugano devoted his career to preserving Liguria's nearly forgotten indigenous grapes. Working alongside dozens of small growers, and gradually acquiring his own vineyard parcels, he has helped rescue varieties such as Bianchetta Genovese, Ciliegiolo, Bosco, Alberola, and Cimixà, proving that these historic grapes could produce wines of remarkable character. Today, Bisson is regarded as one of the defining estates of the Ligurian coast and one of Italy's great champions of native varieties.
The vineyards lie along the Golfo del Tigullio, where narrow terraces rise almost directly from the Mediterranean. Unlike many of Italy's famous inland wine regions, Liguria's climate is shaped almost entirely by the sea. Warm days are moderated by constant maritime breezes, while cool mountain air descends each evening from the Apennines. The soils are thin, rocky, and well-drained, forcing vines to root deeply and naturally limiting yields. The result is a style of wine that is unmistakably Ligurian: bright, intensely aromatic, and marked by an almost salty minerality that seems to carry the scent of the nearby sea.
Bisson Bianchetta Genovese
The Bianchetta Genovese is perhaps the clearest expression of Lugano's life's work. Native almost exclusively to the province of Genoa, the variety had nearly vanished before Bisson began championing it. Fermented entirely in stainless steel to preserve its delicate aromatics, the wine is wonderfully understated. Aromas of white flowers, green apple, citrus blossom, and fresh herbs lead into flavors of lemon, pear, and a subtle almond note, all carried by lively acidity and a distinctly saline finish. There is nothing flashy about Bianchetta Genovese—its charm lies in its quiet precision and effortless drinkability. Few wines feel more at home beside the cuisine of the Ligurian coast. Try it with fresh oysters, grilled branzino, pesto alla Genovese, focaccia still warm from the oven, or a simple salad of tomatoes, basil, and burrata. Its freshness and delicate texture make every bite seem just a little brighter.
Bisson Ciliegiolo
The Ciliegiolo tells a different story. Although the grape is best known today as an important blending partner in central Italy—and is often associated with Tuscany—it has long found a natural home along the Ligurian coast. At Bisson, 100% Ciliegiolo is harvested from hillside vineyards near Sestri Levante, where a brief, cool maceration preserves the grape's freshness before fermentation. The result is a red that is vibrant rather than powerful, opening with aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and wild Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it is silky, savory, and remarkably energetic, with gentle tannins and the same maritime salinity that runs through so many of Bisson's wines. Rather than asking for a heavy roast or rich braise, this is a red that belongs with the foods of the coast: stuffed vegetables, grilled tuna, roast chicken, cured meats, mushroom dishes, or even a seafood pasta. Served with a slight chill, it may be one of Italy's most versatile reds for the dinner table.
Two wines, two indigenous grapes, and one producer whose passion has helped preserve an entire corner of Italy's viticultural heritage. Through Bianchetta Genovese and Ciliegiolo, Pierluigi Lugano reminds us that some of the world's most compelling wines are found not in famous appellations, but in the quiet places where tradition, landscape, and determination come together. They are unmistakably Ligurian—fresh, vibrant, and shaped by the sea in every sense.
